Let’s make a deal

Negotiating with my feet

Since my foot problems began, I’ve been pointing toward today and feeling that if I could get through this one, the last two stages would be pretty easy. I did more stretching and massage of my feet this morning before leaving and felt reasonably good for at least the first hour.

I had an internal dialogue with my feet, promising them that if they would get me through this day, I would continue to massage and stretch them and wouldn’t ask anything so demanding of them for the foreseeable future. It was nonverbal communication in both directions, but I think my plea was received, as they didn’t start to really rebel until the last four or five miles. I can’t explain my sense of relief after getting through this 18.1 mile day with over 2000 feet of both climbing and descending. My video app says I only walked 14 miles because I paused the mapping during a break and forgot to turn it on again until much later. Oh, well, not my biggest concern!

On the way out of Palas de Rei this morning, I passed the statue below. There was no placard explaining it, but the outstretched arms were pointing in the direction of the trail, so it seems to be ushering pilgrims forward.

After passing several cafés, I was drawn to the one below, and sat inside to order coffee and a tortilla. As I know a thing or two about pulling an espresso shot and frothing milk, I was very happy to see that the barista was the first person on the Camino who did the process properly. What a great cup of coffee!

After the first couple of weeks of walking, I think most of us have gotten pretty good at recognizing the people who started around the same time from behind by their backpacks, hats, walking gait, etc. It feels strange to see so many people ahead that we don’t know.

In addition to those who began their Camino in Sarria, two of the many other Camino de Santiago routes have merged into ours. There are now others who have been hiking for many weeks on different routes who are now sharing the same trail with us.

If you look closely, you can see many more pilgrims up ahead in this photo

When I went to bed last night, it was with the full expectation that I would be walking in pretty steady rain after the first hour or two today. The likelihood of rain was 60 to 70% on my weather app, but when I got up this morning, it had dropped to 20%. I cannot believe the good fortune we have had with regard to the weather on this trip. Once again, except for a couple of isolated raindrops, I was able to complete the stage without using my rain gear.

Upon surviving the stage, I enjoyed a great lunch, but had to rush to my accommodation for the night because the temperature started to drop, the wind kicked up and the sky really darkened. Fortunately, I got here just ahead of the rain.

Made it to my room with a couple of minutes to spare before the rain began

I haven’t spent much time the last couple of days reflecting on this whole journey because my mind has been preoccupied with my feet. With a stage of just under 13 miles tomorrow, I think the reality of the finish will start to sink in.

My state department friends will finish tomorrow, but only one of them will still be there when I arrive on Friday. I’m expecting to get into the cathedral square in Santiago by mid morning and celebrate with friends who came in ahead of me and behind me before going to the pilgrim mass in the cathedral at noon.

The cathedral is supposed to be spectacular. On important holidays and occasionally on other dates that are not announced, there is a huge incense burner (a botafumeiro) that is swung from the ceiling during the mass. Ruth saw it when she arrived last week, but from what I understand, the likelihood of this being part of the service is not very high. I will go again in the evening if I don’t see it at noon, just in case it happens. Here is link to an explanation about the history and ceremony for those who are interested. Apparently, it is quite a spectacle.

Rain is expected again tomorrow, but hopefully we will luck out. It’s now time for more stretching and massage of my feet before prepping for tomorrow and, I hope, getting to bed within an hour.

Here’s today’s one minute video with extra photos.