The short stage that…
wasn’t so short
In yesterday’s blog entry, I indicated that today’s stage would be short because I continued beyond the traditional end of yesterday’s stage. What I had forgotten was that I decided to go almost 5 miles further today so that I could do some sightseeing in the city of Ponferrada. It has a significant cathedral, a fortress with walls around it and a nice atmosphere. If I hadn’t extended today, I would have gone through the city tomorrow in the middle of a stage and I knew I wouldn’t do any sightseeing, but that decision made today a 17.7 mile day.
Today’s stage was the first one that I consider truly hard on the Camino. Of course, when I was sick I missed the first stage, which competes with this one as the hardest. With a breakfast and lunch stop that consumed at least an hour and a half, it took me almost 10 hours door-to-door to complete this extended stage. By the time I got to my accommodation, there was no way I was doing any sightseeing!
The culprit was the steep and rocky downhill that I previewed yesterday. It certainly lived up to its billing, and then some. At breakfast and lunch, people were talking about how hard and dangerous the descent felt. I’ll share some photos, but none of them begin to capture what it was really like. Even photos that show what looks like a clear path were difficult because the clear part was usually only about a foot wide. The fact that I (or anyone else) made it through miles of this type of walking without any broken bones is a small miracle!
Before I left on this trip, many people asked me if I was sure that I would be safe on the Camino as a woman traveling alone. Today is the only time I have felt at all concerned for my wellbeing. In reality, it is a perfectly safe stage for anyone who takes it slowly and pays attention, which is what I tried to do.
My head was down much of the day, and I had to keep reminding myself to stop and look around to enjoy the scenery. I deliberately walked alone, partly because of where I wanted my focus to be (I’ll describe that in a section about my parents below), but in the end, the mental energy it took to stay upright and choose the best course was quite taxing and impeded the memories I expected to reflect on.
Here are a few photos of the scenery and terrain.
I mentioned above that I intended to revisit memories of time with my parents today. This was because an iconic spot on the Camino came at just about 1.5 miles this morning. It is called Cruz de Ferro, Iron Cross. I don’t know the history of it, but people have left remembrance stones and messages here for many years. I’m not sure how the pile is maintained, but you walk across the stones from previous pilgrims to get up to the base of the cross where you can put your own.
Before leaving the U.S., I had asked Jim and Emmy (brother and sister-in-law) for rocks from their property in rural western Mass. My mother loved taking her dog for walks in the trails behind their house, and my father would go there a couple of times a week in good weather just to sit in one of their flower gardens and enjoy the butterflies. There are now rocks for my parents and stepmother on this sacred site.
One of the reasons for extending my stage yesterday was so that I could be at the cross around sunrise. I hoped to be ahead of other people, but they had the same idea I did. Anyway, it was a special experience. Notice the light in the photos and the way the flight paths intersect with the cross.
Tomorrow really will be a shortened stage. It’s supposed to be 19 miles, but I have already completed more than four miles of the stage. The weather looks good and my destination, Villafranca del Bierzo, is supposed to be a nice place.
I’m glad it was you and not me hiking that slippery rock trail. It’s exhausting and takes so much concentration. Congrats on making it without slipping. The cross is gorgeous. What a special moment.
Amy, stunning photos at the cross. Perfect timing, I think. I love the memories/stones/cross “ceremony.”